RING! A kitchen bell chimes as a bowl of thin, hand-pulled noodles in slow-cooked broth, garnished with chili oil and tender beef appears, its rich aroma filling the air. In Fairfax, you can now experience a taste of Lanzhou, China’s noodle capital. 

Tucked away inside the Great Wall food court, the Chopin Noodle House brings a cozy environment despite being in the middle of the hustle and bustle. Upon entering, one is hit with the scents of Chinese herbs, spices and aromas. Elderly Chinese couples hunker their backs down near a register ringing orders. Weaving your way through the crowd, customers will find a seat at one of the light brown tables, surrounded by simple wooden chairs – unfussy and functional.

When ordering, the thickness of the noodles can be customized from extra-thin, regular, thick, flat, wide, extra, knife-sliced or gluten-free noodles. Mastering the art of hand pulling noodles can take months or sometimes even years of training.

Coming from Lanzhou, a city in the Gansu province of China prized for hand-pulled noodles with distinct chewiness and elasticity, the owner brings his skills in hand pulling. These noodles are made from scratch, stretched by hand to achieve signature firmness and chew, using traditional techniques that set them apart from mass-produced noodles at some takeout restaurants.

While the name “Chopin” might seem unexpected, it is an ode to the owner’s past as a piano teacher, an homage to the famous Polish composer. Just as the piano takes years of practice, so does the art of hand-pulled noodles– a skill he shares across his restaurants. This is his third location, following the ones in Gaithersburg and Catonsville, Maryland. Since June of 2024, he has brought his flavors from Lanzhou to Fairfax, serving his noodles to a new customer base. 

A2 – 8.5/10 (传统牛肉面) – Traditional Beef Noodle Soup, $14.95

Among the owner’s Lanzhou traditional dishes is the Traditional Beef Noodle Soup, a Lanzhou staple. Now, it’s time to face a harsh reality: a decent spice tolerance is needed. A non-trivial amount of chili oil, made in-house with chili powder from Gangu, China, marks the Traditional Beef Noodle Soup. Hand-pulled noodles swim in broth, circled with tender beef, cilantro, Chinese leek and pieces of crunchy radish. The aroma is strong, the bowl coming piping hot on a tray– a true treat on a rainy day.

The noodles stretched to the “regular” thickness are bouncy and silky, yet firm, holding onto the flavorful broth. The oil adds a smoky richness that builds with the pleasant heat, its kick balancing with a deep umami. That said, the oil isn’t as the menu suggests. With a one chili icon, it holds more heat than its double chili icon chili sibling, the Oil Spill Noodles. 

B2 – 7.5/10 (油泼面) – Oil Spill Noodles, $14.95

The latter chili sibling, Oil Spill Noodles, slightly underwhelms; the chili powder doesn’t burn quite enough for my liking. “Wide” sized by default, these hand-pulled noodles lean softer, almost doughy, melting in the mouth rather than giving a more expected chew. It comes with chili powder resting on top, requiring a mix with the searing hot oil to unlock its flavor, but even then, is slightly muted.

The thickness of these noodles adds a welcoming change of scenery pairing nicely with China’s vegetable of choice for over six thousand years: bok choy. The snap of freshness is joined with small cubes of beef, coaxing more depth. The melding of flavors this dish provides feels lyrical but still asks for an extra punch. 

B3 – 9.5/10 (炸酱面) – Jajang Noodles, $14.95

While soup-based noodles are a tier of comfort themselves, my heart always resides with solely sauce-drenched, finer noodles. Perhaps that’s why, while having stuffed myself with four bowls of noodles in one sitting, my favorite dish was the Jajang Noodles. Coming with a colorful bundle of vegetables, a small mound of ground pork soaking in an unapologetically rich, inky black bean sauce is offered. 

This sauce, rather than being gooey and starchy, like Korean Jajang noodles, takes a lighter approach. While still deeply savory, it isn’t as heavy, allowing the springy noodles to cling to the salty sauce with a bold burst of flavor. I quite enjoyed my noodles not being drowned in a thick sauce; rather, this dish explored how much a sauce can cover.

On top of the sauce are the vegetables – ones that don’t just sit there for decoration. The fresh julienned carrots and cucumber, along with the scattered scallion topping, add a fresh crunch to the mouthful of noodles balancing out the richness of the dish.

B6- 9/10 (兰州炒面) – Lanzhou Stir-Fry Handpull Noodles, $15.95

Hearty: that’s one word to describe the Lanzhou Stir-Fry Hand-pull Noodles. Together, thick, chewy strands tangle with vegetables and beef, sauce coating each mouthful. The tomatoes, some cubed, others long and slightly jammy, carried the dominant essence of the dish. Chunky zucchini, slightly caramelized onions and carrots blend with the Sichuan peppercorn, lending to that pleasantly numbing spice.

Thicker strands of hand-pulled dough help the sauce cling from each bite of the dish. The beef cubes, if chosen, are a hit or miss, with some pieces buttery while others take an additional couple of chews. All in all, it’s a melting pot of flavors between vegetables, beef and noodles as they blend, each bite more comforting than the last. 

Side Dishes

  C1 –  8/10 (蕬泥贾瓜) – Cucumber Salad, $5.95    

Chinese cucumber salad is a simple dish and Chopin Noodle House does it right. As one of their sides, this dish brings a refreshing addition to the meal: sliced cucumber with slivers of garlic and sprinkles of salt. Amid some spicy dishes, it’s a needed equalizer and a pleasant stand-alone dish. 

C11 – 7.5/10 (酸辣土豆丝) – Potato Salad, $5.95

The potato salad complements the main dishes.  Thinly sliced and nicely firm, slicked with oil with a slight amount of chili oil seasoning, it’s a good companion to the other dishes but lacks a defining punch, making it forgettable; possibly a dish to skip. 

Chopin Noodle House may not be the easiest place to find, but it doesn’t matter once the noodles arrive. The hand-pulled noodles, slow-cooked broths and house-made chili oil don’t just accompany each other; rather, they form dishes that reflect a craft. For those who can wait, it offers more than a meal, but a taste of home or Lanzhou itself. The restaurant serves delicious and well-made food, with thoughtful touches like a unique bowl design to rest chopsticks on top. Chopin Noodle House plays a melodious tune in a grocery food court –  one I recommend listening to.